Vancouver International Wine Festival travels to Italy: 5 expert picks from the Tasting Room

Whether it’s wine from lesser-known regions in Campania or Umbria, or favourites like Nebbiolos and Barberas, get ready for a dose of dolce vita

By Janet Smith

Marchesi di Barolo, in the Langhe area, Piedmont, Italy.

The Vancouver International Wine Festival Tasting Room.

The Vancouver International Wine Festival’s Tasting Room runs February 29 to March 2 at the Vancouver Convention Centre

YOU DON’T NEED to be a connoisseur to know that, when it comes to Italian wines, an expensive Barbaresco is the gold standard and a Chianti pairs well with a spaghetti bolognese. But even for oenophiles, there’s always more to discover—as visitors to the Tasting Room at this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival are about to find out.

Italy, with more than 500 grape varietals and about 20 wildly diverse regions with their own traditions, is taking the spotlight at this year’s fest. The Discover Italy program features 71 wineries from 13 of those areas.

And for good reason. Just ask sommelier and VIWF Winery Selection Committee co-chair Mark Taylor, who counts Nebbiolo and Piedmont’s Barbera among his top favourites—“two wines that magically transport me back to that region.”

“Italian wines captivate me with their remarkable versatility, particularly when it comes to pairing with food,” Taylor says. “As a sommelier, I’m often tasked with pairing wines to a meal. The structure and diversity of wines from Italy make that job easier, as almost all Italian wines are intended for food—but quite quaffable. Prosecco or Moscato, anyone?”

Amid this year’s Tasting Room options are representatives from Abruzzo, Emilia-Romagna, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Puglia, Sicily, Tuscany, and Veneto. (As ever, the fest’s charitable partner is Bard on the Beach Theatre Society.) And despite the fact that reds usually take centre stage when it comes to Italian wine, there are some astounding whites to try.

As for Taylor, he recommends hitting booths from popular areas like Tuscany, Piemonte (Piedmont), and Veneto, but also exploring fantastic lesser-known wines: think Aglianico and Falangina from Campania, Verdicchio and Pecorino from The Marche, and Montefalco Sagrantino from Umbria.

“Some people think that Italian wines are difficult to get to know—500 varieties? 20 regions?” Taylor says. “But you can break down the wine country into four zones: Northwest, Northeast, Central, and South. While wines from the same regions often share similar styles—with plenty of exceptions—trying new wines is the most fun of any tasting experience, so go for it!”

His general advice for tackling the Tasting Room, with its 147 wineries from places as farflung as California’s Sonoma Valley and New Zealand’s Marlborough region? Know you can’t hit everything. And spit if you want to stay standing.

“Have at least a rough plan. There are too many wines to taste in one evening—I attend all four public events and I still can't manage to get to every table!” Taylor relates. “Make a point to try new wines. Pass by the wineries you already know and let someone else discover them. Most important: Make sure to spit! Spit cups are available. It’s what the professionals do and it’s the only way you'll stay upright through the tasting experience. Eat before you go and make a night of it by supporting a local restaurant after you’ve finished tasting.”

Here are just five of Taylor’s picks from the Italians bringing a little dolce vita this year’s Tasting Room. (“Wow. Only five?”)

#1

Soave Classico wines from Azienda Agricola Inama

“Beautiful and nuanced expressions of this classic wine.”

#2

Roero Arneis from Vietti

“The delicious white, from a 150-year-old winery from the heart of the Langhe, is seafood-friendly, with lots of ripe white fruit balanced with a zippy citrus core.”

#3

Amarone della Valpolicella wines

“Especially from the likes of Cantine Aldegheri, or Allegrini—amazing high-end quality at these side-by-side booths. Don't forget to move on and try other wines!”

#4

Reds from San Polino

“I can't wait to try the heralded reds from San Polino, a small family estate in Montalcino known for top-notch Brunello. Several good vintages will be poured at their table.”

#5

Marchesi di Barolo

“I love visiting and sampling the bottles at the Marchesi di Barolo, especially if their delightful daughter Valentina is in attendance to guide me through their line-up.”

Azienda Agricola Inama’s Soave Classico region.

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