Makers of Indian sweets, Mithai & Co launches just in time for Diwali 2020
The Vancouver food company wants to elevate the profile—and popularity—of traditional treats like laddoo
Mithai & Co’s Classic Besan Laddoo consists of slow-roasted chickpea flour in pure desi ghee (clarified butter) mixed with candied hazelnut pieces topped with white chocolate flowers.
THE YEAR 2020 is one that most people are ready to close the door on. For Ruby Darhela, it has been bittersweet. On the downside, she lost her job as as a result of COVID-19. On the positive side, the sudden free time gave her the nudge she needed to launch Mithai & Co, a new Vancouver-based food business that’s all about Indian sweets.
She runs it with her partner, Dwayne Russell. “Mithai” means sweet in Hindi/Punjabi. And through the baking they do out of Coho Commissary, they want to boost the profile and the popularity of the treats she grew up with in Ludhiana, in the state of Punjab.
“I have fond memories of walking to the village sweet shop with my grandfather in India when I was little to get mithai,” Darhela tells Stir. “The owner was my grandfather’s best friends, so us grandkids never left the shop without our hands full of mithai to snack on the way home.
“Mithai is such a huge part of Indian culture,” she adds. “The recipes are so elaborate; many were invented in the royal kitchens of the kings and emperors of India. We believe they deserve just as much attention as any other dessert like the French macarons or Belgian chocolates.”
Darhela met Russell at her previous place of employment. She moved to Vancouver in 2016; he moved eight years prior from Wellington, New Zealand. The two connected over food when she introduced him to Indian cuisine and he introduced her to New Zealand’s savoury pies. Both being creative types, they dreamed of having a small business that would allow them to create and grow.
“We used to make mithai at home on Diwali to share it with our friends and family, and we would often get inquiries on where we purchased the mithai from or where we sell it,” Darhela says. “Dwayne has always dreamed of being Willy Wonka, so it was natural for us to specialize in mithai.
“Diwali symbolizes the victory of good over evil, so we see it as a time that marks the end of everything, we suffered through because of COVID-19, namely losing my job, and a beginning of good times for us,” she says. “For us, Mithai is an expression that creates a medium to unite people and cultures.”
Mithai & Co’s logo is an example of that harmony: two Indian elephants performing what New Zealanders call a “hongi”, an embrace intended to share the breath of life. “Our purpose,” Darhela says, “is to create these moments for others to enjoy and celebrate life through our art.”
The pair’s line for launch consists of laddoo, which is a category of dry, spherical sweets typically made with milk, nuts (such as cashews, almonds, pistachios, and hazelnuts), seeds, spices, and flours. Mithai & Co is taking an artisanal approach, incorporating new flavours and textures while staying true to the desserts’ roots.
Mithai & Co’s Coconut Laddoo are filled with hand-crafted tropical mango sauce.
For Diwali—which takes place on November 14—look for three types. Classic Besan Laddoo consists of slow-roasted chickpea flour in pure desi ghee (clarified butter) mixed with candied hazelnut pieces topped with white chocolate flowers.
Coffee Caramel Laddoo is the duo’s take on the traditional dhoda (which was invented by a wrestler named Hans Raj as an energy bite in 1912). They use organic whole milk and wheat germ, fill the treats with coffee caramel, and top them with 23-karat gold flakes. Cardamom-flavoured Coconut Laddoo are filled with their hand-crafted tropical mango sauce. The bakers don’t use any artificial colours or preservatives.
Diwali falls on November 14 this year, and even though it will be a celebration unlike any other in the past, Darhela loves the traditions that are part of it. Preparations start days in advance and include deep cleaning or renovating of homes, as many people believe that Goddess Laxmi, the goddess of prosperity, will visit on the night of Diwali to bring good luck. People dress in their finest clothes and decorate and illuminate their homes with rangoli and diyas (oil lamps made out of clay) to welcome Goddess Laxmi in their homes. People make elaborate feasts, which include mithai, to share with friends and family and also as offerings for puja, a religious ceremony.
Mithai and other desserts vary from region to region in India. And now, here in Vancouver with Mithai & Co, they’re taking on ever new forms.
“I was an average student growing up, but I was more known for painting and making clay sculptures,” Darhela says. “I tap into that creativity and use both those skills in making mithai. Dwayne has always been creative and has always had a sweet tooth; this naturally lends itself to having enthusiasm when collaborating on textures and flavours.
“We both compliment the creative process,” she says. “We both love how the earthy tones of mithai contrast with the gold or silver flakes, and how combining different textures and flavours serves the palate in waves that produce a unique culinary experience.”
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